The snow-capped peaks of Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh catching the sunriseThe snow-capped peaks of Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh catching the sunrise

Whilst you can see the Cuillin mountains from most locations on the Isle of Skye, there is only one place you can see right into the horseshoe formation of these stunning mountains and look into its very beating heart. And that place is Elgol.

At the end of a long single-track road around Loch Slappin you will find a tiny, out of the way sleepy fishing village. A few houses, a small school, a cluster of fishing boats and the best view in the world money can’t buy. I’ve driven down this long road several times before now, and every time the weather has literally beaten me back. Elgol is exposed, very exposed, and takes the brunt of many a storm coming in from the Atlantic. But today I was hoping for better. Now I don’t mind moody stormy weather, but horizontal rain is a bit of a challenge for photographers.

'My phone lights up the darkness at this ungodly hour'

I spent the previous night parked at the side of Loch Slappin in Mr T. Yes, he has a name, and he couldn’t be anything other than Mr T of the A Team. After an amazing climb up the Quiraing the previous day, I stopped for a few provisions before making my way to this lovely layby alongside the loch. A great place to edit my images and get an early night for yet another pre-dawn kick off to Elgol. The weather forecast was good, and I was excited.

Loch Slappin all to myself

4am and the alarm is rattling in the van. My phone lights up the darkness at this ungodly hour for the third day in a row. Up and at em!

After hurriedly drinking a cup of tea from my flask and stuffing a couple of breakfast biscuits down, I fired up Mr T and we rattled down the single track road for the rest of the 8 miles to Elgol. I was treated to a fleeting glimpse of a beautiful white owl passing through my headlights on the way.

It was all quiet as I arrived at Elgol, and now light enough to move around without my torch. I took a stroll down to the rocky shoreline scoping out what I could see and noting some places to come back to later. I had parked close to the shore on the lower part of the car park, and as the orange glow before sunrise was starting to light up the sky, I set about grabbing my first shot at precisely 06:24, right on sunrise. The steep hills behind and on the mainland were blocking any direct rays of light so I enjoyed this glorious, what I can only describe as peachy blancmange sky.

Elgol peachy blancmange sunriseElgol peachy blancmange sunrise

Elgol peachy blancmange sunrise

I had managed to squeeze the van between a number of other vans and cars, and very quickly a number of other photographers, boat trippers and fishermen were filling up the space around me. So, I jumped into Mr T and we hoofed it up to a higher spot behind the car park. I wanted to get my 6 stop NDF filter out for some long exposure images and didn’t need people accidentally moving in and out of shot.

My slightly higher vantage point

The sun had now broken the skyline behind and was slowly creeping up the mountains in front of me. Blessed by a few clouds and the sheer height of the peaks I was amongst, the light being cast on the Cuillin range was varied and gave some lovely pastel coloured depth to my images. Just as the rising sun caught the highest snow-capped peaks of Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh off in the distance, I grabbed this glorious 60 second exposure smoothing out the sea.

The snow-capped peaks of Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh catching the sunriseThe snow-capped peaks of Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh catching the sunrise

The snow-capped peaks of Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh catching the sunrise

My plan now was to spend the morning walking the shore north from Elgol, but the tide was high, and I needed to wait for it to turn. Nothing for it to get down to the small harbour and grab some handheld shots with my 70-200 mm lens. This pair of juvenile cormorants (I think) grabbed my attention down on the jetty.

The weather always changes quickly on Skye, and whilst waiting for the tide to turn some grey clouds came in from the sea. So, time to explore the rocky shoreline for some close-up work. As I’ve mentioned before, the Elgol shoreline gets a good battering from the elements, so the rocks really do have a story to tell. About half a mile down the shoreline I found a spot where the rocks were all cracked and broken up from ice and erosion. Looking back to the Isle of Rùm, I found an outcrop of rock that had sheered from the main slab and I could see a hulk of a head. In fact, having grabbed a few test shots, all I could see was ‘The Hulk’ looking over the sea to Rùm.

The ”Hulk” of a giant keeps watch over Rùm.The ”Hulk” of a giant keeps watch over Rùm.

The ”Hulk” of a giant keeps watch over Rùm.

Time for lunch, or was it late breakfast. After chatting to a fellow photographer for around an hour, the skies began to clear and I was able to grab a few more images out across the bay before heading back to the van.

Following the tide out to the Cuillin at ElgolFollowing the tide out to the Cuillin at Elgol

Following the tide out to the Cuillin at Elgol

Midday winter light over Elgol bayMidday winter light over Elgol bay

Midday winter light over Elgol bay

Elgol is a magical place, off the beaten track and well worth a visit. I had a super morning witnessing yet again a jaw dropping sunrise. It truly is the best viewpoint to see the Cuillin range and spend an afternoon combing the shoreline for great images, and the odd treasure to take home.

I would like a moody, stormy shot here one day, and I’m sure that will be easier to find than the rare, glorious day I just had at Elgol. If only my sea legs would let me get a boat ride across to Loch na Cuilce. Next time?

Tomorrow I finally get a lie in, but not before I enjoyed another sunset in the north of the Island whilst I rested (beer) and prepared for a climb to the Old Man of Storr tomorrow.

Good night all